shopping for a Sprinter Van

I've been on the lookout for a Sprinter van for business, and recently found one.  However, it has some issues which look like deal breakers.  This one is a 2002, Freightliner, with a Mercedes 5-cylinder Diesel engine.  It has 260,000 miles on it and has had a rebuilt transmission, new water-pump and radiator.

Here are some pictures of the frame area, where the rear shock mount is located.

Here's the other side without the damage.

Here are some other pictures, showing some of the rusty areas and overall condition.

Hints for repair of Right Front bearing and hub on 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD

Hello again from southern Ohio.  This post is meant as additional information you may need while repairing your 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD.  This particular Dodge is a 4.7L gas powered version, and has torsion bars versus coil spring suspension.  It also has CV type front axles.

There are plenty of fine Youtube movies concerning the removal and replacement of the front axles, or front bearings and hubs.  My purpose here is not to make another movie to add my version of technique in removing and/or replacing these parts.  I want to augment the conversation, and make suggestions that others might have left out or assumed that you already knew about this vehicle.

One of the great movies I found, showed a well trained mechanic removing and replacing (R & R ) the front right, or passenger side bearing and hub assembly.  In my case I had to replace the front left, or driver's side assembly.  The technique for removing the axle on the right is slightly different from the left, as there is less flex in the CV axle on the left, and the actual removal of the hub and bearing assembly was different as well.  In his case he gave the hub two smacks with a hammer, I had to use the bolt technique described below.

First things first.  The CV axle has to be removed, so you'll have to remove the large nut that holds that CV axle to the hub.  You'll need a 35mm socket.  I have air tools, so I removed the nut once the vehicles was already on jack stands, with the wheel removed..  If you are doing everything by hand, I'd recommend doing this with the wheels/tires still on the ground.

The brake caliper, pads and caliper mounting frame need to be removed.  Then remove the rotor and carefully set it aside.

In my case, in order to remove the CV axle, (which has to occur before you can have access to the three bolts holding the hub to the knuckle) I had to disconnect the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle.  If you have never removed a ball joint, word to the wise, make sure you completely remove the nut from the ball joint before attempting separation.  If you don't remove the nut, it will be much harder to do so, once the knuckle is separated from the upper "A" frame, as the ball/shaft/stud will spin when you try to loosen the nut.  You can try to hold the ball/shaft/stud with a wrench, but that will not work once the nut moves so far down the shaft.

This vehicle was heavily rusted, so a can of PB Blaster, penetrating fluid, a good wire brush, and even a thread file/restorer was needed to remove and replace fasteners.  This vehicle was so rusted that the brake hose/line from the frame to the caliper broke, when the caliper accidentally fell off of the upper "A" frame.  I had put it up there after removal, but didn't wire it in place.

At this point, the upper ball joint nut has been removed, and the ball joint was separated from the knuckle.  (I stuck the nut back on the ball/shaft/stud, just a couple of threads, then smacked the shaft/stud on the end with a hammer.  The nut was there to preserve the threads.)  I also removed the lower mounting bolt for the shock and the removed the nut from the stabilizer.  This allowed the lower "A" frame to swing down, offering more room for the CV axle to expand and/or slide on either spline set.

Put the large nut back on the CV axle a few threads to protect those threads, then give the shaft end a good smack with a large hammer to make sure the shaft moves in the splines.  Remove the nut.

It took several techniques and positions of a pry bar to remove the CV axle from the stub shaft, on the front differential.  (The other end of the CV axle.) Once that is accomplished, use a non metalic hammer (or a piece of wood placed carefully on the shaft end and a hammer) to knock the shaft end further out of the hub.  You'll then be able to pull the axle out the rest of the way.  Carefully lay aside the CV axle.  Additionally, you'll want to inspect that for wear.

With the CV axle out of the way, you have access to the bearing hub mounting bolts.

I recommend purchasing three, 14mm X 1.5 X 90 (or longer) bolts to aid in the removal of the bearing hub assembly from the steering knuckle.  Sometimes the bearing hub is easy to remove with a smack or two from a two-pound sledge hammer on either side.  That technique did not work in my case, so removing the mounting bolts and replacing them with the three longer bolts allowed me to use the hammer on those bolts.

Let's look at some pictures.  The picture below shows the bearing hub mounted on the steering knuckle, but without the shield, for the purpose of showing details.  This shows the knuckle in the same relative position as it would be when mounted on your vehicle.

This next picture shows the same combination, but from the backside, with two of the three "removal aid" bolts in place.

This picture shows the bearing hub, separated from the knuckle.  I determined the bearing was the cause of the grinding noise coming from the front end.

This next picture shows a crack in the upper ball joint mount of the knuckle, rendering it useless.

Just in case you need to replace the ball joints, here's what they look like off of the vehicle.

The first one is the upper ball joint, which comes on an "A" frame.  This ball joint cannot be pressed out.  You must remove the bolts holding the "A" frame to the brackets on the frame.  This also shows a non-factory nut (14mm X 1.5) which I was using during the repair process, so I didn't ruin the original.

Here's the lower ball joint, removed from the lower "A" frame.

Once you've bolted on the new bearing/hub, you're going to install the CV axle, if it passes your inspection.  I would advise using a wire brush on the splines in order to allow smooth insertion into your new bearing/hub.  I would also advise some light lubricant on the splines.  It should slide into the splines on the bearing/hub easily.  If it does not, it means it isn't lined up correctly, so take your time.

After sliding the CV axle into the bearing/hub, you'll have to slide it onto the splines of the stub shaft (the part hanging out of the front differential) and once again, it should slide on fairly easy.  You'll notice that there's a ring around the stub shaft about half way along the length.  You must make sure to give the axle a good push to make it past that ring.  If not, pull back slightly and give another push.  There should only be about a finger thickness between the differential housing and the CV axle.

Hopefully, I have aided you in your attempt to work on your truck.  Please feel free to comment.

Repairing wood rot in your RV trailer

Four Winds Express

Damage Control

We purchased a 2004, 26-foot, Four Winds Express in April of 2010.  We camped in Ocala, Florida, various locations in Georgia, Louisville, Kentucky, Avon, Ohio, and at least one other roadside campground off of I-75 in Kentucky.

The first Winter we decided to pull out all of the carpeting and existing linoleum and replace it with vinyl tile squares.  The carpet is just a dirt magnet and tile squares are easier to replace if damaged.

While pulling/cutting out the carpet and linoleum I discovered a soft area of wood on the main floor near the slide out.  I followed the soft wood to the wall, up that wall and to the main beam, which spans the opening of the slide out.  Further investigation would lead to finding rotted wood along the main floor beam under the slide-out opening, and more along the outside bottom edge nearly all the way around the camper.  Subsequently, we did replace water damaged/rotted wood in the front right quadrant, under the front sheet metal.

Special Shout Out to Wynn Watson, who advised and worked on the removal, and replacement of all of this rotten wood.  Under his tutelage, I learned all about the details of removing structural wood without damaging the surrounding sheet metal or non-damaged wood.  He is quite humorous on top of all of that knowledge as well.

After the major repair was completed, back in the winter of 2010-2011, we went camping in Georgia and happened to meet two men who had previously worked in camper manufacturing.  One of them bragged that it was common to build a camper like the Four Winds in about 45-minutes from start to finish.  It is no wonder that quality control is lacking and in fact it is because of that speedy process that these campers are made to fall apart.

As described by one of those men, and witnessed in the actual construction while tearing it apart, a layer of plywood is laid on the steel-beamed trailer frame, and then covered completely with linoleum.  That alone traps any moisture between the linoleum and non-treated plywood, and allows wood rot to start.

Furthermore, once the frame is on, a product called Luan plywood, with a plasticized wall paper overall is stapled to the wall studs.  This process again assures that any water getting behind the wall paper will stay there.  By simply avoiding the previous two processes, much of the wood rot could be avoided.  Using pressure-treated wood for the main beams, if allowed by code, would be another technique to aid in longer life of the trailer.

The following pages will illustrate one way to repair and mitigate further water intrusion.  In this project, only pressure-treated lumber/plywood was utilized, and a coating of Kilz (primer) or polyurethane paint, or both were used to seal the wood from further water intrusion.  Also, all remaining linoleum was subsequently removed, and three coats of polyurethane paint was used on all floor surfaces to seal the wood and allow for better sticking of the square tiles.

As with any of these in-depth projects, make sure you take plenty of pictures for reference, detail analysis and to aid in putting everything back where it belongs.  A roll of tape is handy for putting labels on wires, or marking pieces of wood for later reference.

Of  course we always assume that a person undertaking this type of work will adhere to common safety practice, such as wearing earplugs, safety glasses, gloves, knee-pads, and enclosed shoes.  Cleaning your work space will make for a safer day, and will help you organize the next steps. 

The drawing above represents the basic layout of the FourWinds Express.  I will refer to four quadrants, Left Front, Left Aft, Right Front, and Right Aft.

We will start in the Left Front, where the rot was initially found.

The picture below shows the area where the left front side of the slide out joins the left front quadrant of the trailer.

In order to gain full access to the initial damage area, we had to remove the closet, carpet, and vinyl floor covering.

There is rot on the slide out, the lower and upper main support beams and the wall stud at the point where the slide out opening is located.

Note the lower main support beam is made up of three separate boards.  In RV construction the wall studs are smaller than the standard 2 x 4.  We had to cut down 2 x 4's, 2 x 6's and special order the plywood used in the floorboard. 

Just forward of the slide out, the rotted wood continues.  This picture shows the plain, steel, carriage bolt used to hold the main beam to the metal frame below.  Most carriage bolts were rusted almost, if not all the way through.

The picture below shows the forward end of the upper main beam.

The picture below depicts the extent of the damage to the upper main support beam.  It is amazing that it did not fail during our previous camping trips.  It is highly likely that this damage began many months before we ever bought the camper.  I good pre-buy inspection by a knowledgeable inspector would have uncovered the damage.

Removing the upper main support beam was a difficult job.  Once successful, we placed it on the ground to photograph it.  See below.

In the picture above, you will see that there are actually three components to the upper main support beam.  There's a 2 x 3 (the picture note indicates 2 x 4 but nothing in the RV industry is that large) on top, then a board roughly 2 x 6, then plywood on the bottom.

The picture below shows the aft end of the beam still installed.

This shows the main beam removed, with just a layer of sheet metal left in place.  Removing the wood means first removing and/or cutting all of the nails and staples.  There were many, many staples used in the manufacturing of this trailer.  Our success in removing the roof support beams, wall studs and floor boards came by carefully using diagonal cutters (wire cutting pliers), reciprocating saws, and small chisels on the nails and staples, then pry bars of successively larger sizes to make gaps and then slowly spreading those gaps until the boards were separated.  If you are in a hurry during this process, you'll probably cause more damage, so take your time.

Now let's look at the repairs we made to those areas.

This is what the original soft spot looks like after repairs.

Here's the same area after we painted it.

We then installed the insulation, and new floor board.

... then we put the closet back in.

The aft upper and lower require just as much repair.  See the succession of pictures below.

In the picture below, we've installed the scuff plate, a plastic piece which allows the slide out to slide into the camper, without damaging the floor.

The upper beam required as much attention.  

The slide out, which had been removed and was sitting on supports, also needed repair.  See the below pictures of damage and subsequent repair.  You'll notice we used angle brackets, and sheet metal to add strength to corner areas.

Let's continue around the perimeter of the trailer, and we will look at the damage near the main entrance in the right rear corner.

In this picture we've already removed some of the rotten wood and are preparing to remove the rest.

In this one, we've replaced some of the wood.  

Then we replaced more of the wood.

As I mentioned the workmanship in this trailer is poor.  Evidence of this is seen in the picture below, where the license plate mounting screws totally miss any wood.

Here we added wood with bracing sheet metal.

Moving towards the Right Front quadrant, there was damage near the bedroom door/entrance.

Note the water pipe has curved all the way across the front of the trailer, under the area where the bed is located, then into the bathroom area.

Here's the same area with repairs made.

Now, on to the very front of the camper.  In the Right Front quadrant, there was damage to the main spar.  In the next group of pictures, you will notice the before pictures for reference, then some sequence of removing Luan paneling, and underlying support wood, and some of the subsequent repairs.

If you look carefully at the image below, you'll see one small spot that looks out of place.  This is the original indication there was damage in this area.

In the photo below, you'll notice that I've numbered the boards where they join other boards.  This is because I can cut them out and reuse them in the same spot for rebuild.  Note also that the manufacturer used a support board with a large knot, and then drilled a whole in the same area.  

In this image, you'll see the upper part of the spar.  You'll see in subsequent photos that the spar appears to be one big piece of knotted wood.

Finally, we removed the spar and I have it in hand to show the damage.

Here's the area where the spar was previously.

Here's the new spar in place and painted.

Here's the next spar over.  It was not damaged so I painted it to help prevent rot in the future.

This image shows some of the support wood painted with some Luan replaced.

The following are some pictures of the finished product.  Thanks again to Wynn Watson, who installed every tile and custom cut them to fit every nook and cranny.